Fashion has always been a global language, borrowing,blending and transforming styles from different cultures. But where do we draw the line between cultural appreciation and outright appropriation? Time and time again, we’ve seen Western brands dig into African culture, extracting aesthetics, patterns and transition without giving credit or respect to the source. This isn’t just a fashion faux pas; it’s an issue rooted in history, power imbalances and a lack of genuine recognition.

So, let’s get into it. When does fashion cross the line? And more importantly, how can the industry do better?

Culture Appropriation in Fashion: The ugly truth

Cultural appropriation happens when elements of a marginalized culture are used by a dominant culture in a way that disrespects, misrepresents, or exploits their original meaning. In fashion, it often looks like big brands and designers taking traditional African prints, beadwork, or silhouettes, rebranding them as “exotic” or “tribal,” and selling them for profit—without acknowledging or benefiting the communities they originate from.

One of the biggest examples of this happened with Valentino’s spring 2016 African-inspired collection.The runway feature predominantly white models wearing clothing inspired by African tribal designs, accessorized with cornrowed hairstyles and beaded jewellery. The problem? not a single African designer or cultural consultant was credited, and there was no effort to involve African artisans in the production process.It was Africa, without Africans.

Similarly, Stella McCartney faced backlash in 2017 when she showcased wax prints in her collection, calling them an “elevated take on African style.” The irony? African women have been wearing these fabrics for generations, and McCartney’s collection did nothing to acknowledge or include that history.

When does Fashion become cultural appropriation ?

Cultural appreciation, on the other hand, happens when brands honour, collaborate with, and amplify the voices of the cultures they’re inspired by. It’s about giving credit where it’s due and ensuring that the communities behind these traditions actually benefit from their exposure in the fashion world.

One brand that gets this right is Kenneth Ize, a Nigerian designer who works directly with artisans in Nigeria to produce his signature woven textiles. Instead of just imitating the aesthetics of African craftsmanship, he’s investing in and preserving the actual craft.

Another example is Dior’s 2019 collaboration with Uniwax, a Côte d’Ivoire-based textile company that produces authentic African wax prints. Instead of just taking the fabric and running with it, Dior acknowledged the craftsmanship, worked with local artisans, and gave visibility to African textile production on a global scale. That’s appreciation.

Why is this so important?

Africa has long been seen as a source of inspiration but not a player in the global fashion conversation. Western brands frequently cherry-pick elements from African cultures while ignoring the rich histories, designers, and artisans behind them. This not only erases the real contributions of African creatives but also perpetuates economic disparities, where Africa is the muse but never the beneficiary.

This needs to change.

How Can Fashion Brands Honour African Culture Respectfully?

So, how do we shift the industry from appropriation to appreciation? Here are a few ways brands can engage with African culture the right way:

1. Collaborate with African designers and artisans
   • Instead of imitating,partner with the people behind the culture.Many African designers are already creating luxury- level craftsmanship, and brands should be lifting these voices rather than co-opting their work.Collaboration with designers like Tongoro (Senegal), Imane Ayissi (Cameroon) or Lola Maléombho (Côte d’Ivoire) bring authenticity and mutual benefit
2. Give Credit Where It’s Due
   • Acknowledgment costs nothing, but it means everything. If a brand is inspired by a specific African textile, aesthetic, or craft, they should clearly state that in their branding and marketing. This small but crucial step shifts the narrative from exploitation to education.
3. Invest in African Fashion Economies
   • Brands that profit from African designs should reinvest in the communities they borrow from. This can mean:
     • Hiring African models, photographers and creatives for campaigns
     • Sourcing materials from African textile makers rather than producing cheaper, imitation versions elsewhere
     • Funding programs that support African artisans and craft preservation.
4. Avoid Stereotyping and Exoticism
   • African fashion is not just “tribal prints” and “ethnic” patterns. Africa is home to some of the most diverse and avant-garde fashion scenes, from the sharp tailoring of Adebayo Oke-Lawal’s Orange Culture to the futuristic aesthetics of Rich Mnisi. Brands need to stop reducing African fashion to a one-dimensional stereotype.

Moments of Cultural Appropriation in Fashion

To understand why this conversation is so important, let’s look at some moments when brands got it wrong:

• Marc Jacobs SS17 – The designer sent white models down the runway wearing dreadlocks, completely ignoring the cultural and historical significance of locks within Black communities.

• Louis Vuitton’s Masai-Inspired Collection – The brand took elements from the Maasai people’s traditional dress but failed to acknowledge or compensate the community for their influence.

• Gucci’s Blackface Sweater (2019) – While not directly tied to African fashion, Gucci’s infamous blackface-inspired balaclava sweater showed how brands can be deeply insensitive to Black culture and history.

Where Do We Go From Here?

Fashion has the power to connect cultures, tell stories, and create movements. But that only happens when it’s done with respect, integrity, and accountability. The good news? More African designers, creatives, and entrepreneurs are taking up space, demanding recognition, and redefining what global fashion looks like.

For the industry as a whole, the future means moving beyond surface-level representation and towards genuine inclusivity. It means brands not just borrowing from African culture but actually investing in it, collaborating with it, and giving back to it. Because appreciation without action? That’s still appropriation.

The next time you see a high-fashion collection “inspired” by Africa, ask yourself: Who’s really benefiting? The answer will tell you everything you need to know.

see you next week guys!!!

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